【全非资讯·尼日利亚】 尼日利亚：Akwete纺织工将伊博族纺织传统带入现代

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Akwete布料过去主要被用作包裹物和礼服，如今正在当代服装设计和大学培训中焕发新生。织造者、教育工作者和文化遗产专家表示，扩大其市场有助于保护数代人的知识，同时创造新的生计。\n\n在尼日利亚阿比亚州的奥博希亚-恩多基（Obohia-Ndoki），乌切奇·阿胡纳尼亚（Uchechi Ahunanya）将在木质织布机前连续坐上三到四周，她的双手在一道密集的紫色线幕上有节奏地移动。在作坊温暖的赭石色墙壁衬托下，精细的经线在她上方和周围延伸，她仔细地逐行织造布料，引导每一根纱线准确就位。\n\n对阿胡纳尼亚而言，织造Akwete布料不仅是一项生意，更是家族中女性代代相传的遗产。\n\n她的祖母享年103岁，在阿胡纳尼亚的母亲出生前就已经开始织布。她的母亲延续了这一传统，使得阿胡纳尼亚在成长过程中得以目睹布料从精心排列的纱线中诞生。\n\n这位纺织创业者回忆道：“当我们长大的时候，看到母亲制作这些东西，就幻想着什么时候能开始制作自己的作品。我第一次织布时，内心充满喜悦。”\n\nAkwete是一种手工织造的纺织品，与尼日利亚东南部阿比亚州乌夸东地方政府辖区的Akwete镇及周边恩多基社区息息相关。这种布料历史主要由女性生产，以其复杂的图案、鲜艳的色彩以及织入设计中的文化内涵而闻名。\n\n尽管其生产历史存在争议，但有据可查的证据将Akwete织造业的发展追溯到至少19世纪，当时尼日尔三角洲各社区之间的贸易促使Akwete女性采纳、重新诠释并扩展了现有的织造传统。这种布料不仅成为了文化载体，也是女性重要的收入来源。

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原文原文 / Original Text

Once primarily worn as wrappers and ceremonial dress, Akwete cloth is finding new life in contemporary clothing and university training. Weavers, educators and heritage specialists say expanding its market could preserve generations of knowledge while creating new livelihoods.

For three to four weeks, Uchechi Ahunanya will sit close to the wooden loom in Obohia-Ndoki in Abia State, Nigeria, her hands moving steadily across a dense curtain of purple thread. Against the workshop’s warm ochre walls, fine strands stretch above and around her as she carefully builds the cloth line by line, guiding each thread into place.

For Ahunanya, weaving Akwete cloth is more than a business. It is an inheritance passed down through generations of women in her family.

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Her grandmother, who lived to the age of 103, was weaving before Ahunanya’s mother was born. Her mother continued the tradition, allowing Ahunanya to grow up watching cloth emerge from carefully arranged threads.

“When we were growing up, we saw my mother producing these things and wondered when we could start our own,” the textile entrepreneur recalled. “The first time I did it, I was overjoyed.”

Akwete is a handwoven textile associated with Akwete town and the surrounding Ndoki communities in Ukwa East Local Government Area of Abia State in southeastern Nigeria. Produced historically by women, the cloth is recognised for its intricate motifs, vivid colours and the cultural meanings woven into its designs.

Although the history of its production is contested, documented evidence traces the growth of Akwete weaving to at least the 19th century, when trade between communities in the Niger Delta encouraged Akwete women to adopt, reinterpret and expand existing weaving traditions. The cloth became both a cultural object and an important source of income for women.

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